Great review of Brenda's new restaurant in San Francisco!
What struck me most about Brenda’s Meat & Three, the subject of my review yesterday in The Chronicle, was how different it was from most restaurants that have opened in the last year.
How many do you know, for example, that serves bologna sandwiches, or vegetables cooked so long you could probably spread them like butter on bread?
However, Brenda Buenviaje has the touch. Her Brenda’s French Soul Food in the Tenderloin is wildly popular and she chose another transitional neighborhood in the Western Edition for her outpost of Southern cooking.
At dinner, diners order a protein and choose three sides from about 20 listed on the blackboard above the kitchen. That could be Brussels sprouts, green beans, beets, collard greens either prepared with or without meat, and a good version of macaroni and cheese. Most main courses — a thick slab of meatloaf, ribs, a grilled fillet of trout — are under $20.